Having
just returned from the South of France, Les Beaux to be exact,
may I tell you that it is no coincidence that this month’s recipe
has a definite Provencal look to it! Mainland “Yurrop” is - and
I don’t care what you think- is just way ahead of us when it comes
to food and lifestyle. Never mind going back to basics, they never
left it. WE are the chumps in this country who have let the butcher
baker and candle- stick maker go. It goes beyond just buying wonderful
food to eat and enjoy, what I am talking about is a real sense
of community and wholesome wellbeing that goes deeper, gets under
our skin, and makes us feel good about our lives, our future and
ourselves. Be brave, get out a beautiful basket sling it over
your arm and really go shopping- touch the fruit, taste the cheese
and talk to the person next to you. In a perfect world, it may
even be in the candlestick maker’s queue!
Pot Roasted Partridge with Apple Gravy
Serves 4
4 plump oven ready partridges
2 tbsp clarified butter
1 medium onion, finely chopped
200g cubed pancetta
3-5 sage leaves, finely chopped
350ml Apple Juice
1 large eating apple
2 tbsp grain mustard
Salt and pepper
Chicken/game stock on standby if needed to finish off the dish
Heat the clarified butter in a large deep casserole dish (it
needs to hold all the partridges and have a tight fitting lid)
until it starts to foam. Seal the partridges on all sides so
that they take on some colour. Remove them from the dish and
set a side. Put the onions and pancetta into the casserole and
cook until the onions and pancetta are translucent - about 5
minutes. Return the partridges to the casserole, pour in the
apple juice, and add the chopped sage. Season with salt and
pepper. Bring this up to a simmer and either reduce the heat
on the hob to low or place in a pre heated oven 160c for about
30 minutes. Basting half way through the cooking time.
While it is cooking, peel and core the apple and cut it into
very small cubes. Add it to the casserole after the 30 minutes
are up and continue to cook for another 10-15 minutes or until
the apple starts to soften.
Remove the partridge from the casserole on to a warmed serving
dish and finish off the gravy. Stir in the mustard and check
for seasoning and if needed add a little stock.
Serve each person a partridge with the apple gravy and mashed
potatoes.
Wine: I suggest a lovely dry, slightly honeyed
with a bit of spice wine -2004 Pinot Gris, Albert Boxer from
the Alsace region at £14.95 to go with the Partridge.
Lay and Wheeler 01473 313233
Tip: My personal favourite cookbooks this
month:
Cooking outside the box, Abel and Cole cookbook (Collins £17.99)
- fantastic recipe for cooking game in a loaf tin – very clever!
The Cook’s pocket bible and the Gardener’s pocket bible (both
by White ladder press £7.99 each) great stocking stuffers.